Xing Liu https://www.youtube.com/@caliallstaring/videos

Faizal Westcott https://www.youtube.com/c/FaizalWestcott/videos

Irene Rudnyk https://www.youtube.com/c/IreneRudnyk/videos

Matt Osborne https://www.youtube.com/c/MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom/videos

Look at Fujinon 56mm f:1.2. Which is also large.

Yet TTartisan 50mm f:1.2 is really small.

Autofocus means the lens will be larger, for example.

There are SD cards with built-in WiFi module to backup to external device, such as laptop or iPad.

If your camera is equipped with WiFi module or Bluetooth and it allows tethered shooting, you may save photos to your laptop or iPad when shooting. Or may be you may connect and download photos a bit later.

There are devices that allow a backup of SD card info. Such as external HDD or SSD boxes with SD card slot.

If your camera is equipped with dual SD card slots, you may use one of those modes: RAW to 1 card and JPEG to 2 card, or backup mode. In first case, even if one of your cards fails, you still have info from another card, and with modern cameras JPEGs are much much better than in elder times, especially if you have got Fuji camera from 2014 and newer. And backup mode is self explanatory. Make sure to carry a battery charger and several fully charged batteries with you, because writing on both cards drains a battery much faster.

If your camera has neither WiFi nor dual SD card slots, get a camera with both options.

Use SD cards from the best brands: SanDisk, for example.

I use old film era manual lenses really often.

With autofocus glass, I use manual focus and a single focus button when I’m sure that subject will not move that fast, and it’s easier to fix the focus than to autofocus each time. Especially in commercial photography.

1. If you want to get the best details, you shoot in studio at 5.6 or 8. But you don’t have to. Believe me, it depends on a lens you use. If it gives you better portraits at 2.8 and 4.0, you may not want to close it down to 8.

In outdoor portraits, the idea is not the same. Imagine you have film camera with ISO100 slide film. And you need f:0.2 in these light conditions. What should you do? It’s just too low light to get anything good. So you either use higher ISO (film with high ISO), or stop shooting. Your aperture depends on the distance to the subject and on your task. When you get close to your subject, f:1.4 will give you blurry far eye and most part of the portrait, just one eye will look like it’s in focus. When you are far away from subject and shoot full portrait, f:1.4 and even f:1.2 or f:0.95 will be ok.

2. Viewfinder is for training and learning. In real life you use either viewfinder or screen depending on the situation, your comfort and personal preferences.

3. You may learn this. But you don’t need additional light in some of your shooting situations. You may even shoot weddings without additional light. And reportage.

Talk to them. Get more time than you need for just shooting. Continue shooting and talking, until either the person will get used to camera or you run out of time. This is for portraits.

For street photo, use 90mm or 135mm lens on APS-C and m43 and 135mm or 200mm lens on full frame.

That’s very correct question.

90mm or 135mm will help. After you will decide for yourself that at least you don’t interrupt and bother them.

All in all, then you shoot a city central square, you can’t ask every stranger for their permission.