I wasn’t going to get involved in this one as well but here we go.

In this scenario, if you kept the ISO at 100 but instead of increasing ISO, you kept the shutter open for longer, you will also get a perfectly exposed image with minimal noise. If noise was inherent to low light scenarios, you would be capturing more of it because your sensor would be exposed to that noise for longer, but that’s not the case.

And yes, you would still get a small amount of noise (and hot pixels), but that’s thermal noise from keeping the photovoltaic sensors exited for a longer period of time.

Yes, base or native ISO will produce the least noise in a correctly exposed image.

Funny thing is, there are also a few “not very good photographers” in youtube that post really good content.

I always make a point of reading the manual for my new bodies, etc but it’s almost guaranteed the following week I will be searching for how to use the self timer or use bracketing, or specific settings in a flash and such, because I will already have forgotten.

Youtube it’s a brilliant resource.

In case no-one else has noticed. Op is either a bot or training a bot. I think the purpose of this post it’s to gauge how widely photographers are using or suggesting the use of ai to enhance photos.

Assuming you are shooting on a DSLR or Mirrorless, the first and foremost, is to shoot RAW.

I had an occasion shooting a wedding. When shooting weddings, things can move very fast and you have to be ready to capture fleeting moments.

I had a very emotive moment happening behind me, I turned around just in time to get a photo of it and the flash misfired, luckily I was able to get enough detail back from the RAW file. That particular image happened to be one of the most cherished memories of the whole day for the couple.

In general though, I have presets in lightroom that I use to batch process images according to theme. For example I have presets for travel, sports, nature, portrait, etc.

Then I have also actions on photoshop if I want to, for example change contrast, saturation or change the mood of an image.

Most times than not, I use my own actions and presets rather than third party applications but it doesn’t hurt to play with apps, etc. Even if it is just to get new ideas.

A 200mm lens mounted on a 1.5 crop sensor will offer the same fov as a 300mm lens mounted on a full frame sensor.

That’s not right.

Take a full frame 35mm lens and mount it in a full frame body, then mount the same lens in a cropped sensor body. The fov on the cropped sensor body will be smaller than what you see on a full frame body.

Conversely. Using Nikon lenses as an example.

If you take a DX lens (cropped sensor dedicated lens), and you mount it on a full frame body, you will see a heavy vignette around the image because the projected image doesn’t cover the entire fov area of the sensor.

Note. Nikon FX bodies can detect when a DX lens is attached and it will automatically crop the image to suit the lens design, you need to disable the auto crop feature in order to be able to see the vignette.

Also the black area around the sensor will be different from lens to lens. The 35mm DX is famous for offering almost complete usable FX projection, while the 50mm will show a completely black border around the centre image.