It’s not so much the hashtags themselves, but with the removal of “Recent posts” in favor of “Recent top posts”, they might as well be dead.
OP, I’ve gone back to Flickr. I’m not generating enough leads from there to justify Pro yet, but we’ll see.
It’s not so much the hashtags themselves, but with the removal of “Recent posts” in favor of “Recent top posts”, they might as well be dead.
OP, I’ve gone back to Flickr. I’m not generating enough leads from there to justify Pro yet, but we’ll see.
For boudoir work, I generally engage them in conversation and suddenly they realize they’re a lot better at posing than they thought they were. But that’s over the course of an hour or more, I couldn’t imagine trying to get 5 headshots right with that alone.
It’s not so much the technology here, but the selection. As a photographer, I would 100% not expect the retoucher to be on the same creative page as me, unless the photographer really doesn’t care that much. I’ve cut down portrait raw shoots by a factor of 10, it’s just a normal thing I budget into the quote.
I’d do this as a boudoir photographer. Probably cheaper than a big stock site.
They need to send you the 350.
Terry Richardson and how he was allowed to be what he was for as long as he was.
I’ve never seen an AF lens with distance scales that were worth a crap. Especially if you’re trying to do it with a focus-by-wire lens that has no actual physical connection to the elements.
The classic method for street photography was zone focusing anyway, so you’d set your focus distance a certain ways out (or at hyperfocal, so everything beyond a certain line was in focus out to infinity), usually stopped down to increase the plane of focus.
Buy a Kodak disposable camera
Eneloop army here
I mean, for the ghosts, you could try a less-haunted place…
As a buyer, I prefer KEH. As a seller, I’d go with whatever the best net offer is.
Put together a studio if you have a spare room. Learn strobes and you’ll never have to market yourself as a “natural light photographer”.
On the hunt for some parabolic umbrellas that won’t fall apart
Strobist gets recommended a lot to beginners, but they’re more speedlight-oriented than the bigger strobes.
Honestly I’d start looking through the manufacturers recommended here and getting an idea for the tech. I personally don’t mind setting power manually and running off of AC power, but others with more complicated setups might want to automate that or at least make it more streamlined. Some lights (like Paul Buff Einsteins) stay color-temp accurate throughout their whole f-stop range, this may or may not be important to you.
And in a turn of events, you see people using LED “hot lights” more than ever now with the rise of YouTube creators and vlogs. A world of difference from the old Lowel tungstens that would heat the studio on a winter day.
Are you looking for speedlights or bigger studio lighting?
If you’ve been out for that long, everything has gone to monolights instead of separate power packs and heads. Sinar Bron doesn’t seem to have the same distribution it once had in the US, so Broncolor stuff seems difficult to find. Paul Buff makes a pretty good line that’s more affordable than Profoto or most Elinchroms, the White Lightning line is as no-frills as you’ll get today. Or you can get a fancy setup with built-in remotes, control everything from an app on your phone, etc.
I’ve done natural light headshots that I liked, but I got to specify the location and exact time I wanted, in a place I knew the lighting. You’ll have none of this.
Conversely, if they’ll pay you, rent two octaboxes or bounce umbrellas and a couple speedlights.
Big strobes.
Pay me enough and I’d hand them over, sure.
Unless you’re going to get everything drum scanned right off the bat (which won’t happen for ten bucks a roll), do not give away your negs.