99% when you’re shooting with big strobes/flashes they’re so much more powerful than lights around.
A gym like this is actually quite dim for the camera , that’s why if you go to getty and look at indoor shoots of actual games you’ll notice how much noise there is.
To freeze motion like the photographer is doing you also need strobes with high flash sync , and to be that powerful those must be some expensive lights.
My godox lights for example don’t go higher than 1/400 without adding shadows in one side
True. I know the guy that has been the “official photographer “ for an NBA team for years. He has his own strobes installed in the arena. Once you know what to look for you see constant flashes during the game. It’s not like looking straight at a flash going off, just enough to smooth the shadows.
I was the only photographer in our college conference who got permission to put up strobes in our arena. If the other team complained, I had to turn them off, but what I always did was emailed the coach the week before and offered a few shots in exchange for them letting me shoot with strobes on. Only one team ever had an issue with it and the rest really appreciated a few good shots they could use on their socials.
To freeze motion like the photographer is doing you also need strobes with high flash sync , and to be that powerful those must be some expensive lights.
Absolutely not. You leave your shutter at 1/125 or 1/250 or whatever, use your other exposure triangle elements to black out the ambient, and your exposure time becomes your flash duration. “High speed sync” is much much slower and far worse at freezing motion than just shooting with traditional strobes.
I will be freezing the ball with 1/10,000 second duration flash pulse from my QT1200 strobes, not with my shutter speed, same as this guy is doing, and my R3 will flash sync at 1/250 in EFCS mode. Using flash and then ALSO trying to use fast shutter speed is misunderstanding entirely what you’re doing.
The shadow on the side of the frame is the shutter. However some lights with some cameras can do high speed sync. So you can go faster than sync speed, but usually with less flash output.
It’s not that the lights aren’t fast enough it’s that above a certain speed your shutter isn’t fully open at one moment, instead it’s a slit travelling across.
The reason your speed light works is because in hss mode it rapidly flashes, effectively creating a constant light during the exposure.
Source: 23 years working at a place called ‘The Flash Centre’
99% when you’re shooting with big strobes/flashes they’re so much more powerful than lights around.
A gym like this is actually quite dim for the camera , that’s why if you go to getty and look at indoor shoots of actual games you’ll notice how much noise there is.
To freeze motion like the photographer is doing you also need strobes with high flash sync , and to be that powerful those must be some expensive lights.
My godox lights for example don’t go higher than 1/400 without adding shadows in one side
True. I know the guy that has been the “official photographer “ for an NBA team for years. He has his own strobes installed in the arena. Once you know what to look for you see constant flashes during the game. It’s not like looking straight at a flash going off, just enough to smooth the shadows.
I was the only photographer in our college conference who got permission to put up strobes in our arena. If the other team complained, I had to turn them off, but what I always did was emailed the coach the week before and offered a few shots in exchange for them letting me shoot with strobes on. Only one team ever had an issue with it and the rest really appreciated a few good shots they could use on their socials.
Absolutely not. You leave your shutter at 1/125 or 1/250 or whatever, use your other exposure triangle elements to black out the ambient, and your exposure time becomes your flash duration. “High speed sync” is much much slower and far worse at freezing motion than just shooting with traditional strobes.
good luck trying to freeze a ball in the air with 120 or 250 lol , also 250 will be high speed sync
There are multiple cameras on the market that can sync at 1/250 without switching to HSS.
I will be freezing the ball with 1/10,000 second duration flash pulse from my QT1200 strobes, not with my shutter speed, same as this guy is doing, and my R3 will flash sync at 1/250 in EFCS mode. Using flash and then ALSO trying to use fast shutter speed is misunderstanding entirely what you’re doing.
The shadow on the side of the frame is the shutter. However some lights with some cameras can do high speed sync. So you can go faster than sync speed, but usually with less flash output.
I know what it is. The lights aren’t fast enough to sync with the shutter speed.
The same doesn’t happen with a speedlight
It’s not that the lights aren’t fast enough it’s that above a certain speed your shutter isn’t fully open at one moment, instead it’s a slit travelling across. The reason your speed light works is because in hss mode it rapidly flashes, effectively creating a constant light during the exposure. Source: 23 years working at a place called ‘The Flash Centre’